\u2018\u2018\u00c7al\u0131\u015farak ya\u015fa ya da sava\u015farak \u00f6l!\u2019\u2019, 19. y\u00fczy\u0131l Lyon\u2019unda ipek i\u015f\u00e7ilerinin s\u00f6yledi\u011fi bu s\u00f6z kentin en \u2018havadar\u2019 semtini, Croix-Rousse\u2019u di\u011ferlerinden ay\u0131ran tarihi bir referansla bu yaz\u0131m\u0131z\u0131n konusu yap\u0131yor.
\nSaone ve Rhone nehirleri aras\u0131nda, Lyon kent merkezini olu\u015fturan yar\u0131madan\u0131n ba\u015flang\u0131\u00e7 noktas\u0131ndaki tepeye kurulan Croix-Rousse, modern tarihin ilk i\u015f\u00e7i ayaklanmas\u0131n\u0131n ev sahibi olarak bilinir.
\nSemt ad\u0131n\u0131 Fransa Kral\u0131 12. Louis\u2019nin Lyon\u2019u korumak i\u00e7in in\u015fa ettirdi\u011fi sur ve onun ba\u015f\u0131ndaki ha\u00e7tan (croix) al\u0131r. S\u00f6z konusu ha\u00e7 zaman i\u00e7inde \u00e7ok defa tahribata u\u011fram\u0131\u015f ve sonunda 1994\u2019te bir kopyas\u0131 yerine konmu\u015ftur. Yoku\u015flar\u0131 ve merdivenleri ile 1998\u2019de Unesco D\u00fcnya Miras\u0131 Listesi\u2019ne giren Croix-Rousse \u015fimdilerde k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck kafeleri, s\u0131rad\u0131\u015f\u0131 d\u00fckkanlar\u0131yla Lyon\u2019un \u201cburjuva-bohem\u201d (bobo) hayat\u0131n\u0131n bir par\u00e7as\u0131.
\nLyon\u2019a yolunuz d\u00fc\u015fer de ipek i\u015f\u00e7ilerinin tarihi merkezi olan bu semti g\u00f6rmeden ayr\u0131l\u0131rsan\u0131z, e\u015f dost aras\u0131nda \u201cLyon\u2019u gezdim\u201d s\u00f6z\u00fcn\u00fc kullanmamaya gayret edin. Yok, illa \u201cLyon\u2019u gezdim\u201d diyecekseniz, o zaman Croix-Rousse gezisine Terreaux Meydan\u0131\u2019ndan ba\u015flaman\u0131z\u0131 \u00f6neririm.
\nSa\u011f\u0131n\u0131za belediye binas\u0131n\u0131 ve hemen arkas\u0131ndaki Rhone nehrini ald\u0131ktan sonra; \u201cd\u00fcnya miras\u0131\u201d olan dik merdivenlerden a\u011f\u0131r a\u011f\u0131r t\u0131rmarak, zaman zaman arkan\u0131zda kalan yar\u0131madaya k\u0131sa bir bak\u0131\u015f at\u0131p, nefeslenerek \u201cbobo\u201dlar\u0131n aras\u0131na kar\u0131\u015fabilirsiniz.
\nLyon mimarisinin vazge\u00e7ilmezi olan \u201ctraboulle\u201d, yani pasajlar burada dafazlas\u0131yla kar\u015f\u0131n\u0131za \u00e7\u0131kacak, e\u011fer yerlerini biliyorsan\u0131z dik yoku\u015flu sokaklar\u0131 a\u015fmak \u00e7ok daha kolay olacak. \u201cAcelemiz yok! Manzaran\u0131n tad\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7\u0131karal\u0131m\u201d dedi\u011finizi duyar gibiyim. \u00d6yleyse bu \u201cbohem\u201d atmosferi hissetmek i\u00e7in k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck d\u00fckkanlar\u0131, kitap\u00e7\u0131lar\u0131 gezmek, bir kafede dinlenip yama\u00e7tan Lyon\u2019u seyrederek kahve yudumlamak da m\u00fcmk\u00fcn.<\/p>\n
19. y\u00fczy\u0131l ba\u015flar\u0131nda Lyon Fransa\u2019n\u0131n en \u00f6nemli sanayi \u015fehirlerinden biri olurken Croix-Rousse bu sanayile\u015fmede ipek i\u015f\u00e7ili\u011fiyle \u00f6ne \u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015f ve Lyon ipe\u011finin vitrini olmu\u015ftu. Bununla birlikte yeni bir meslek erbab\u0131 da \u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015ft\u0131 tarih sahnesine: \u2018Canut\u2019 (ipek i\u015f\u00e7isi, okunu\u015fu \u2018kan\u00fc\u2019). Kelimenin k\u00f6k\u00fcne dair ilgin\u00e7 hikayeler anlat\u0131l\u0131r. Bu hikayelerden biri ipek i\u015f\u00e7ilerinin \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131rken giydikleri k\u0131sa pantolanlardan ya da \u00e7ektikleri yoksulluktan dolay\u0131 \u201cbald\u0131r\u0131 \u00e7\u0131plak\u201d manas\u0131nda \u201ccannes nues\u201d ismiyle \u00e7a\u011fr\u0131ld\u0131klar\u0131n\u0131 nakleder.
\nNitekim sanayi devrimiyle birlikte\u00a0gelen makinele\u015fme, isimlerine lay\u0131k m\u00fctevaz\u0131 hayatlar ya\u015fayan ipek i\u015f\u00e7ilerini ekmekleri ve onurlar\u0131 i\u00e7in sava\u015fmaya zorlar. Benzer bir hadise matbaa makinelerinin geli\u015fi s\u0131ras\u0131nda \u0130stanbul\u2019daki hattatlarla ilgili de anlat\u0131l\u0131r. Makineler kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda el eme\u011finin direni\u015fini temsil eden isyanlar Fransa ordusu taraf\u0131ndan kanl\u0131 bir \u015fekilde bast\u0131r\u0131l\u0131r ve t\u00fcm ipek i\u015f\u00e7ileri k\u0131rsala s\u00fcr\u00fcl\u00fcr. Nihayet makinele\u015fmeye teslim olan Lyon ipe\u011finin an\u0131s\u0131 \u015fimdilerde Croix-Rousse tepesindeki, m\u00fczeye d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcr\u00fclen ipek at\u00f6lyelerinde ya\u015f\u0131yor. Bum\u00fczelerden en bilineni \u2018\u2018La Maison des Canuts\u2019\u2019 (ipek i\u015f\u00e7isi evi) i\u00e7inde ipek dokuma tezgah\u0131, ipe\u011fin geli\u015fim s\u00fcreci ve i\u015fleme \u015feklinin anlat\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 g\u00f6rseller bar\u0131nd\u0131r\u0131yor. Hatta \u00e7\u0131karken hat\u0131ra ipek mendil, kravat, e\u015farp ya da fular alabilirsiniz, elbette ciddi mebla\u011flar\u0131 g\u00f6zden \u00e7\u0131kararak. El dokuma ipek at\u00f6lyeleri, g\u00f6steri ama\u00e7l\u0131 olanlar\u0131 d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda art\u0131k tarihe kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131 ancak el boyama at\u00f6lyeler mevcut ve el yakan fiyatlar\u0131yla sanayinin kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda direniyor.<\/p>\n
Semtin ruhuna i\u015fleyen\u00a0\u201ccanut\u201d gelene\u011fi, bir de g\u00f6steri\u015fli duvar resmiyle kar\u015f\u0131m\u0131za \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yor: \u201cLe Mur de Canut\u201d (canut duvar\u0131). Bilindi\u011fi \u00fczere Lyon, adeta \u00fc\u00e7 boyutlu, sizi i\u00e7ine alan, hatta g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn\u00fcz\u00fcn resim de\u011fil de ger\u00e7ek oldu\u011funa bahse girebilece\u011finiz duvar boyama sanat\u0131nda istisnai bir yere sahip. Bu t\u00fcr duvar resimlerini \u015fehrin bir\u00e7ok yerinde g\u00f6rebilirsiniz ancak canut duvar\u0131 bunlar\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fc\u011f\u00fc ve en detayl\u0131s\u0131 olarak d\u00fcnya miras\u0131 listesindeki Croix-Rousse merdivenlerini de i\u00e7inde bar\u0131nd\u0131r\u0131yor.
\n\u201cBu canut her \u015feye ismini vermi\u015f de yeme\u011fi yok mu acaba?\u201d diyorsan\u0131z, T\u00fcrk\u00e7e \u00e7evirisine \u00e7ok tak\u0131lmamak kayd\u0131yla \u201ccerveille de canut\u201d tatl\u0131s\u0131n\u0131 deneyebilirsiniz. Zira bu lezzetli peynir tatl\u0131s\u0131n\u0131n T\u00fcrk\u00e7e ismi \u201cipek i\u015f\u00e7isi beyni\u201d. Afiyet olsun!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
\u2018\u2018\u00c7al\u0131\u015farak ya\u015fa ya da sava\u015farak \u00f6l!\u2019\u2019,…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":42,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[53,63],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.kadrandergi.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8078"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.kadrandergi.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.kadrandergi.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.kadrandergi.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/42"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.kadrandergi.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=8078"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.kadrandergi.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8078\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.kadrandergi.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=8078"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.kadrandergi.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=8078"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.kadrandergi.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=8078"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}